In which Layla and Roz hone their bear combat skills and take a lot of steps

By Layla

The looks on people's faces when we told them we were going to the Canadian Rockies on holiday was mostly incredulity: "but usually you go somewhere weird, and this time you're going somewhere everyone dreams of going!"

Sure enough, Canada is close, and the hype about the Canadian Rockies is persuasive... And it's beautifully doable without a car... So we took the plunge, and tried not to look at the rain-saturated weather forecast. Flying into Calgary, we only really had time to glance at the city and it didn't really enchant. But no matter: it was a mere staging post. The next day, in true holiday style, I set our alarm for 5:15am and before we knew it we were on the bus to Banff.  

What a difference an hour makes. As Roz fell asleep, we were leaving Calgary. It was flat, bright, unremarkable. Then she opened her eyes as we were nearing Banff and we were up in the clouds, jagged mountains poking romantically through the gaps, and misty, pointy trees as far as the eye could see. This was a landscape we'd never encountered before! So we dropped our bags at our hotel, walked into town, fueled up with tasty treats at the town bakery, and explored. The town of Banff is like a frontier town. It's set up as a supply post for people doing various outdoorsy things in the mountains, and it definitely has that vibe. Yet the people doing outdoorsy things tend to be quite well off, so the town's shops have evolved to cater to their desires. It's quite eclectic, and set on the banks of a brilliant turquoise river, in the shadow of some breathtakingly beautiful mountains. I can't remember ever being so impressed by scenery. 

On our first day, after terrifyingly investing in a can of bear spray, complete with instructions about what to do if a bear approached, we climbed Tunnel Mountain. The trail starts right from town and winds up a little mountain, with fantastic views. It was a perfect start to our holiday - and we were sure to loudly talk the whole way to deter the bears. (Not a chore for me!) After an excellent lunch in a fancy bistro back in town, we headed out on another walk, this one along the river to Bow Falls where we watched the water racing over the rocks as water also started falling from the sky. Out came the raincoats. Once the rain died down, we walked up to the Fairmont Hotel, which looks like a huge castle, and had afternoon tea (mmm scones). Very civilised! That evening we sampled the town's fancy schmancy vegetarian restaurant, Nourish, and it was extremely delicious. What a successful first day in Banff! 

The next day was cold and rainy - just the day for white water rafting! Hmmm... But we had pre-booked, so it was non-negotiable. We shivered during the safety briefing, eyeing the completely non-tempting Kicking Horse River. "It's 5 degrees C!" Our guide cheerily informed us... Luckily we were suited up in wetsuits and fleeces and raincoats and water shoes, so the prospect of getting splashed became slightly less horrifying - which was just as well as the rapids went up to Class 4! (For the uninitiated, this means very wavy indeed). It started off smoothly and we drifted along in this weird, drizzly, grey world of jagged mountains and strange rock formations called hoodoos and pointy tree forests... I felt I was in Lord of the Rings. Then there was no time to think as the rapids began in earnest and I had to occupy myself with paddling, clinging to the rope, and shrieking as I was entirely drenched. It was a lot of fun. 

Back in town, we walked home for a rare moment of reading, before it was time to hike up a big hill to the Banff Arts Centre. Which is perched above the town and is famous for its film festival in November. However tonight it was showing a special program of short films from last year's festival - very cool. After dinner in their restaurant, overlooking spectacular scenery, we enjoyed the films, about adventure sports, fittingly, before following the rest of the audience down the hill, through the woods, and back to town. 

On Sunday, we promised ourselves a rare and special treat: no alarm clock! In fact we almost missed breakfast, so long did we sleep, but luckily Roz sweet talked our way into some food, then we set out to Cave and Basin, the birthplace of Canada's National Parks, apparently, thanks to them finding hot springs - sadly no longer in use. But we went behind the springs and set off on quite a significant hike to Sundance Canyon. This was a pretty hike through the forest, and alongside waterfalls. Delightfully for me, our fear of bears meant that our walk was accompanied by my loud and tuneless rendition of the songs from Guys and Dolls. No bears appeared, so we celebrated with a delicious lunch back in the Cave and Basin cafe before logging onto wifi and admiring our new Jawbone pedometers' recording of our efforts... And then heading off to canoe! Other than our lack of skill with the canoe (mine perhaps extra-lacking), it was a glorious trip, up a little narrow forested waterway, popping out into Vermillion Lake, the mountains surrounding us on every side, birds flitting across the water... It was quite idyllic. After beers on our hotel's patio, we initially meant to have dinner in a new place... But then shamefacedly but delightedly found ourselves back in Nourish. Mmmm. 

Today it was another early start, to catch a bus to Sunshine Meadows. It was a happy coincidence that this was our first day of actual sunshine so the meadows could live up to their name. It's a ski resort in winter, but in summer has a 10km walking train that winds across meadows full of flowers, and past three sparkling lakes. It was an absolute delight - possibly the prettiest hike we've ever done! We also enjoyed lunch outside on the balcony afterwards, before heading back to town, where I was informed there is no rest for the wicked... And before  I knew what was happening, found myself back in a canoe, this time heading upriver. Another breathtakingly beautiful experience. Banff is really spectacular, and the canoeing was suitably idyllic. We're now back at the hotel, admiring the readings on our pedometers, coveting dinner, and preparing for an early morning start tomorrow. For a change...