In which Roz and Layla cycle far and admire 8800 Buddhas

By Roz

The next day was our first big day of cycling and both of us had some nervousness - particularly about the heat and humidity. But it turned out to be fine. More than fine.  Mostly. We cycled along pretty country paths, along the side of the lake, and then by streams (passing water buffalo being ridden by tiny boys and being washed in the river and the like) and farming land. We passed monks on motorbikes, schoolchildren on their way to school in addition to the expected passing mules, cyclists and cars. People of all ages seemed truly delighted to see us - possibly connected to the fact that we didn't see a single other tourist. A lots of the time we were cycling alone (and not because we were last!) which was jolly. As we cycled along dirt paths that turned to gravel and tar, we were charmed to find development in action as the road was actually being built beneath our feet on occasion, by groups of locals. We initially reveled in it as a sign of how much the country is changing now - but then as the road building occasions became more frequent, the temperatures higher, and the cycling diversions onto makeshift paths through red sand to avoid the putative road more challenging, we became less charmed and more disappointed whenever we spied a road being built ahead. As the sun blazed down and the hills became more numerous, we soldiered on, and when the end came into sight, we agreed we were very glad it was over - but had had a jolly time nonetheless. 

Lunch turned out to be at a lovely looking place by the river. Somewhat to my sorrow it turned out to be owned by the same people who owned the restaurant we'd been in the night before, with the same menu. But we managed to find something different to eat - as well as consuming numerous strawberry juices (delicious). Then it was a short-ish boat ride to Inthein, site of hundreds of stupas (mini shrines, built by the powerful over the centuries - the oldest being 13th century). We walked up to the site past a million souvenir stalls, showing tourists are not unknown in Myanmar... we then got to the stupas. In parts overgrown, it was fun to wander round, admiring the hundreds of pretty stone monuments, each containing a Buddha artifact or teaching within. We then walked back through the woods, past bright blue water, and hopped on to our boats, and had a delightful hour long boat ride back to our hotel. Layla nodded off in the hot sun every now and then, whilst I read (Bonfire of the Vanities) whilst glancing up to look at the occasional passing foot-rower and the pretty scenery.

After a shower we were in the hotel bar (this is a very kind description) with books and gin. We contemplated our plans for the evening and, when we heard the guide say that dinner should be at one of the two places we had already been to, decided to make a break for it (despite being urged not to go to any other venue in town) and headed to the delightful  Viewpoint restaurant which we'd seen from a distance, looked pretty and was recommended in Lonely Planet. I certainly felt a little criminal / rebellious that we had broken from the others so soon. On the other hand, the restaurant was packed (indeed we had to work hard to persuade them to give us a table, and we only succeeded by introducing them to the concept of two seatings for dinner a night). We then had quite the best meal we have had in Burma so far - a delightful avocado salad (really interesting to taste something I am so familiar with prepared in an Asian way), a tofu dish and something lovely with butter beans as well as some crackers - and the piece de resistance, banana flambé for dessert. All washed down with the same wine we had in Monsoon on our first night. We sat overlooking the river and felt very happy indeed. 

This morning we were up even earlier (alas). I note, though, that though we are undoubtedly the last people to get out of bed in the morning, we are never the last to be ready to go. People can be such pfaffers, and with 18 of us in the group, this is one element of the holiday which I am not enjoying... Our day started with an hour long drive (to reduce down the mileage we would need to cycle) into the mountains and we spent the journey in some fear, given that we had been told that the entirety of the cycle would be undulating. 50 miles of a hilly landscape - however pretty - is not either of our favourites... Surprisingly it turned out to be fine, and involved going through a very different kind of country to that we saw yesterday. Then it was all lush and green (other than roadworks). Today it was much more stark - sometimes almost other worldly - with fields and hills, and it was hard to believe it was the same country. Though cheery to stop for green tea and local snacks in little roadside tea shops, and fun to happen upon a village initiation ceremony celebrating some local boys going to the monastery. After a LOT of hills, we both felt very proud of ourselves as we made it into the town where we will be staying the night.

Lunch was delightful if small (pumpkin soup) but it was very pleasing indeed to check into our surprisingly nice hotel. I used guile to nab us a double bed (homosexuality is illegal here so we have been a bit cagey about demanding one with vigour) and we then settled down on a delightful wooden balcony overlooking the hills to read and sip beer (and eat trail mix, still feeling hungry after lunch). Then it was over to see a giant cave. Filled with stalagmites and so forth it would have been worth seeing anyway, but in fact it has been turned into a Buddhist site and contains 8800 Buddhas (and counting). It was fun meandering through them and getting lost in the "maze" which pleasingly did have a giant Buddha in the middle. And it was also fun to see who had commissioned them - lots from narcotics police(?!) as well as a fair number from outside of Burma. My personal favourite being the one commissioned by a chap in Illinois who had given his full address on the plaque...

And now we are back on the balcony, and I am reveling in the breeze that is coming over the mountains. And my legs are quite stiff.