In which Roz and Layla escape the chill, view ruins, and cycle through the countryside

We left you whilst we were in a cold cabin on a mountain. I coaxed the dying fire into life in an unexpectedly Boy Scout type fashion, and then challenged Layla to a game of Scrabble. I unfortunately made a child's error of helping her when she got stuck with one set of letters. My helping gave her more than 50 points...and I ended up losing the game. Not that I remain bitter at all. 

Next morning, we awoke distinctly chilly and were enthusiastic about getting out into the sunshine. A quick tasty breakfast and the we were off on a hike along a mountain woodland path. The path was delightful, if disappointingly undulating.  (Why do people always make undulating sound like a good thing, when what it really means is "there are going to be numerous bits where you are going uphill but all your efforts will be in vain as you'll then be going downhill"?). 8km later and we found ourselves in another village where we had been told we were going to get some kind of local massage. The local massage turned out to be a local sauna, and Layla doesn't really enjoy this sort of thing. So we negotiated, instead, for another local experience. We were unclear on what this would entail, but heard the word "massage" and "not hot" so what was to be lost. We were taken to a house in the middle of nowhere where we were greeted by a very bouncy and licky small dog and a cheery old lady who spoke no English. She sat us down in her living room (with the dog) and went off to get ready. Then she brought in a large pot of flowers which she put in the middle of the room. And then she left to get two eggs and a glass of water. She returned and indicated that she was ready. I unfairly pushed Layla into a standing position and indicated she would go first. I then had the delight of watching Layla being beaten with a large bunch of flowers and then being "massaged" with an egg which the old lady rubbed with surprising vigor all over her body. I was clear that the lady would have been offended if I'd laughed...and in any event Layla soon had her revenge as she sat there smiling smugly whilst I was beaten and then egg massaged. At the end she broke the eggs into the glass of water, pointing to the toxins and evil eye she'd removed. 

A surprisingly delicious roadside lunch proved something of an anticlimax but was nonetheless enjoyable. We then managed to hop on a crowded bus which took us cheaply and efficiently back to Oaxaca. Incongruously, I watched the Mexican scenery whizz by whilst listening to Fielding's Tom Jones (set in 18th century England) whilst Layla slept, but all in all a relatively pleasant time was had. Back in Oaxaca, our first stop was a shower, to get rid of the flower remnants (and indeed because neither of us had fancied a cold shower that morning). From there we went back to our favourite cafe/bookstore (and had an interesting interlude phoning man who is doing a job that I might be taking and then speculating about what that turn in our life would be like). From there we went to a very well reviewed vegetarian restaurant which would have been lovely he it not been entirely deserted and somewhat spartan. Nonetheless, we pressed on and had a brief meal before retiring to a nice nearby bar for a beer. 

Next morning, after breakfast we hopped in a taxi to go to some ruins at a place called Monte Alban - the remains of the first known city state, perched at the top of a hill. I expected the site to be entirely overrun, and so it was a delightful surprise to find only a scattering of tourists. A delightful two hours passed with us rambling over ruins, up ancient steps and examining the odd carving. We stopped midway for a read in the shade and this too was entirely delightful. 

Back in Oaxaca, we had lunch in the main square and read our books. We contemplated afterwards that we didn't feel entirely brilliant (too much food? After effects of beating with flowers? Stress of potential new job?). We therefore went on a gentle stroll through the streets (mainly in hopes of finding a swimming costume for me - an aspiration that was disappointed) before returning to our hotel to sit on the nice rooftop area and read. As evening approached, neither of us fancied food, so we decided to head into the suburbs of Oaxaca to go to the cinema to the see the new Hunger Games. We arrived early (uncertain whether it would end up entirely sold out or not) and so having bought tickets went to a nearby cafe for a mint tea. The film was good, albeit involving too much peril for my taste. It's always fun to see films in a foreign country and this was no exception - the audience was struck by laughter at inexplicable moments, and the Spanish subtitles didn't look that off to us...

Next morning, we awoke with an enthusiasm for breakfast and went to our favourite cafe again. Then, it was time for a bike tour. It turned out to be our most delightful day so far. A short drive took us into the mountains, where we got off in a picture perfect village which was home to one of the biggest trees in the world (surrounded by crazy topiary bushes). Then we hopped out our bikes and headed off, cycling on dirt tracks through tiny villages and past fields, sharing the path only with passing cows and an occasional donkey-drawn cart. The  temperature was glorious with a perfect blue sky and hills silhouetted all across the horizon. It was entirely delightful and our biking guide (who later turned out to have competed in the Olympics) was entirely kind about the slightly slower pace than one of us wished to go at. (I'm definitely not pointing a finger at Layla...) We then had a a stop for a weaving demonstration. Over the years, we have seen quite a few of these but this was probably one of the best, including a demo of how to create different colour dyes ("it's like magic" one of us said). Then more cycling interspersed with stops for delicious fruit. Then, back into the van for a drive high up into the mountains. Here we had lunch (our best meal in Mexico so far, with beautiful quesadillas made in front of us). And then on to Hierve el Agua, a place Layla visited ten or more years ago. Here we were left to our own devices and we went hiking to beautiful pool which were on the top of remarkable petrified waterfalls. Though the hike was more undulating than either of us would have liked, it was also beautiful. Layla ended up swimming in one of the pools. I had contemplated doing so (despite my lack of swimming costume - I'd cobbled together something that would keep me decent) but the water really was very chilly...and I mentally justified this decision by pointing out someone needed to keep an eye on our bag. We hiked back to the van afterwards (Layla shivering). Our drive home was pleasing enough, with an interlude involving giving a lift to an ancient Mexican who wanted to go to a hospital clinic and a stop to see Mezcal being made. (Mezcal,is the local spirit - a cousin of tequila I think.) Back in Oaxaca, we went back for a shower (and for Layla to defrost) before going out for a light dinner in a very cheery restaurant which was full of people. And then bed: an early start to return to Mexico City tomorrow.