In which Roz and Layla float down rivers and don't jump off a cliff

By Roz

We left you as we were about to go whitewater rafting. (In Layla's last blog entry she omitted to mention that I had been for a run that morning. I assume that this was guilt on her part for not bringing her own running stuff or at having no urge to go running...) Rafting proved to be fab. A not very long bus journey deposited us, and a disappointing number of other tourists, by a very pretty river. Our very best efforts to avoid being put in a boat with children were ultimately foiled but our fellow rafting companions (a couple and their two daughters) turned out to be perfectly nice and the children only slightly braver than us (a relief for all of us). We were talked through the safety instructions, and Layla and I listened as though they were all that stood between us and death (and not at all as though we had done it before). Death turned out not to be particularly likely, not least because it is the dry season in Costa Rica, and thus the waters are quite low (and hence not terrifying). Nonetheless it was brilliant to go down the river, past the odd nameless animal and beautiful bird. We stopped off for a fruit snack, and I made a spectacle of myself by eating far more of the pineapple than was my share (what can I say: I like pineapple and I have very little shame...). Not long afterwards, we were inelegantly getting out of the boats, and were back on to the bus for a very late lunch (3pm). 

We were taken to a local house / restaurant, which they were very keen to emphasize was "really old" (100 years - Layla and I tried not to snigger) and greeted with shots of moonshine, which both Layla and I dodged, I'm afraid (drinking shots never works out well for me, and Layla is even less of a drinker than me). We were then first in line for lunch (rice and beans, plus some really delicious plantain and another dish which was green and vegetarian but absolutely unidentifiable). Having scoffed our lunch before most people had even seen the queue, we both headed back for seconds (we felt guilty but not that guilty). When everyone else had finished, and we had all had Costa Rican fudge (not at all like our fudge) and a sip of moonshine mixed with some other stuff that made it taste like Bailey's (a drink I really don't like but which Layla has quite some enthusiasm for) we went to look at sugar cane being refined by oxen which was fun if a bit random. 

And then we were back in town around 4.30. Our first stop was to organize a trip for the next day and, having successfully done so (with ice cream to help), we went to My Coffee (unsurprisingly a coffee shop) to read our books. Whilst there I became entirely besotted with a small dog owned by one of the neighboring shop owners (and received many compliments on "my" dog from passers-by) and contemplated how to kidnap him - whilst Layla tried to dodge his licks (she still believes any dog with an open mouth is about to eat her, having spent her childhood in Spain where there are lots of guard dogs). The dog owner having reclaimed her dog, the coffee shop lost some of its allure, so we stopped off for a drink in the Lava Lounge, which we went to a couple of nights before. We contemplated food, but the combination of hot weather and a late lunch meant neither of us really fancied food and so after our pause for drinks we returned to the hotel to sit on our balcony, read, whilst drinking a local beer (let's skate over the ice cream...). 

Next morning we were up early for another trip: this time a combination which included tubing, rappelling and horseback riding in a privately owned of part of the rainforest. I can't quite imagine what we were thinking when we signed up for such an ambitious combination: our hotel owner sniggered when he heard our plans for the day and noted we had said we were too scared to do ziplining "but rappelling is much scarier". Tubing turned out to involve floating down a river in a large rubber ring which has a mesh on the bottom to stop your legs going through. It was occasionally slightly scary when the water ran fast (though I suspect that I would be alone in using the adjective "scary" for the experience). But it was also always really wonderful: it's just amazing to float down river, sort of under your own steam - despite the guide - in the middle of a rainforest. Layla and I got out of the water agreeing that we needed to go tubing again, and very soon. 

One might have hoped that our success in tubing would have given us confidence for rappelling. And it certainly gave us confidence enough to get the rappelling kit on. But I am ashamed to admit that when our cheery guide stood on the edge of a cliff and said in Spanglish "you just go down", my confidence failed. It was the lack of anything other than an empty void for the first 10 feet that was the killer for me I think: the jumping off point (which I am sure should not be called that) is further from the rest of the cliff than one would want and so the enthusiastic rappeller (or even the reluctant rappeller) has to make quite a leap of faith. I was not ready to make that leap. And nor was Layla. And so, I am ashamed to say, we shamefacedly backed away from the cliff with many apologies and started talking loudly about our eagerness to go horse riding. 

Horse riding proved to be as excellent as it always is. And the guide's disappointment at our lack of enthusiasm for galloping as obvious as it always is. Ah well. It was fun going through the canyon, and to see the rainforest from a slightly different height. And at the end it was also fun to find ourselves popping out in a field with beautiful volcano views, at an unexpected stable. Our guide warmed to us despite our lack of galloping (eventually), and showed us the dancing horses in his stable - and, best of all, gave us a small horse dancing demonstration. It was really rather lovely to see the clear bond between him and his horses...

We thought that this was going to be the end of the fun activities, but the guy who took us back to the hotel where we'd left our rucksack and clean clothes mentioned that we were entitled to use the thermal baths at the hotel should we wish. (Layla and I disagreed subsequently about whether this was an option offered to all those who dodged rappelling to ensure that there were no requests for refunds... I say yes but who knows.) In any event, we seized on this option with enthusiasm, and (after a quick lunch) had a fab afternoon trying the different baths and painting each other with volcanic mud. Eventually our skin was too wrinkled for any more warm baths and we then had a delightful time with a mohito and our books whilst we awaited the bus. 

Back at our hotel, we read a little (whilst Layla sobered up, lightweight that she is) before going out in the evening for really excellent pizzas (I know, not very Costa Rican but they were delicious).  I had my first nice glass of wine since coming to the country and all in all it was a delightful evening and a fine end to our time in La Fortuna.